Jivdhan via Naneghat

Height : 3750 ft.

How much wow? : Simple yet satisfying is how Pumbaa would put it. The descent from Jivdhan to Ghatghar is thrilling; for inexperienced hikers, it's scare-the-s-out-of-you thrilling.

Difficulty : Easy up to caves at Naneghat. Moderate (strain + some exposed climb) up Jivdhan; risky in monsoon owing to scree on exposed part. (For inexperienced hikers, the Jivdhan climb is difficult owing to a tricky 15-foot climb.) The descent on the Ghatghar side is definitely risky.

Endurance : 2 hours of low/medium climb up to Naneghat caves. 2 more hours of steep climb up to Jivdhan. (And thereabouts to climb down.)

Travel mode : Local + bus (+ local transport like auto/tempo)
Cost : Rs. 250

Region : Malshej ghat

Trek route : Naneghat gate near Vaishakhare -> Naneghat -> Jivdhan -> back to Naneghat gate (or to Ghatghar)

My trek date(s) : 13-Jul-2013 / 29-Dec-2013 / 06-Dec-2014

Images from the trek :

Top: Naneghat covered in clouds at noon (July)
Bottom: The same place in winter (December). Nanacha Angtha is seen clearly in the left  picture. The way to the plateau is through the gully beside it.

Bhimashankar via Shidi ghat

Height : 3300 ft.

Wow factor : Thrilling. Especially scenic in monsoon.

Difficulty : Risky and strenuous. For the inexperienced without a guide - very difficult. For the experienced - difficult in monsoon, medium otherwise.

Endurance : 3-4 hours of medium/steep climb and 3-4 hours of descent (Total time : 1 day ex-Mumbai)

Travel mode : Train + bus (- can be skipped) + jeep/auto

Cost : ~ Rs. 400

Region : Karjat east

Trek route : Khandas -> climb via Shidi ghat to Bhimashankar -> descend via Ganesh ghat to Khandas

My trek date : 24-Nov-2013

The experience :
First thought when we saw the imposing wall of the Shidi ghat route ahead of us - this is going to be the most thrilling trek we've done so far. First thought after we'd climbed the wall - it's great fun, but the difficulty of this trek is overhyped. The only thought while walking back the Ganesh ghat route - why doesn't this trek end? In all fairness, the Ganesh ghat trail isn't so bad and must be very scenic in the rains. The reason I didn't like the descent back was that I hadn't eaten anything for a few hours, and had shoes with a thin sole that (although they were great for bouldering) did nothing to protect my feet from the gravelly ground.

So how was it at the outset? We had to walk almost an hour before the first breathtaking view came in sight - a formidable wall that seemed impossible to climb.

Kalsubai - with a twist

Height : 5400 ft. (- highest peak in the Sahyadris; the typical trek starts from about 2700 ft.)

Flavor : Butterscotch if you add the twist; plain vanilla otherwise.

Difficulty : Easy (- would have labeled it moderate for the strain had it not been for the tens of kids and grand-moms we saw climbing effortlessly); not risky/scary.

Endurance : 2-3 hours of medium/steep climb and 1.5 hours of descent. (Total time : 1 day ex-Mumbai)

Travel mode : Train + bus (+ jeep)

Cost : Rs.250 per person

Region : Igatpuri south

Trek route : Jahagirdarwadi (/ Bari) -> Kalsubai from the east -> walk around ridge to southern tip and west -> walk back and descend to Bari

My trek date : 7th Oct 2013

Experience :

It's 3 o'clock in the afternoon. You think you're on your way back to civilization when your trail abruptly ends and you realize you're lost. You remember that this is precisely what the locals had warned you about - there is no human defined trail where you're going. You're not worried; you think you have a general idea of the right direction, so you can back up a little and get on track. But precisely at that point, a thick cloud cover descends around you and visibility drops to 5 feet; it becomes late-evening dark. You recall that locals had told you it's an animal trail and that tigers and wild boars frequent the area when it gets dark. You try to keep your mind clear and not to panic.

Rajmachi via Kondhane caves

Height : 2700 ft.

Wow factor : Low (or did I miss something?)

Difficulty : Not risky (- no exposed climb), but strenuous (especially if you have a sedentary lifestyle)

Endurance : 3+ hours of steep climb and 3- hours of steep descent. (Total time : 1 day ex-Mumbai - early morning to late evening)

Travel mode : Local train + auto (or bus)

Cost : ~ Rs.400 including travel and grub (Can be done in half of that)

Region : Karjat / Lonavla

Trek route : Kondhane village -> Kondhane caves -> Rajmachi -> back via same route

My trek date : 15-Sep-2013

Ramblings :

This trek turned out to be a myth buster. Here's what blogs said and what we found:

1. 'This is a scenic trek' - Whoever thinks so should climb up Matheran via Garbett plateau in the rains and then hazard a second opinion. The way from Kondhane to Rajmachi is through a jungle and for the most part you can't see anything but the trail ahead and the trees around you. The occasional glimpse of a train chugging along the Mumbai-Pune rail line is fine, but not that great. (Or maybe we were too drained to appreciate it.)
2. 'There are white markings to guide you throughout the path' - There's not one single marking on the entire trail! (Washed out by rains, maybe?) Nevertheless, the trail's pretty straightforward.
3. 'There's a huge tamarind tree waiting to greet you on the way' - This one's just like the mango trees that show you the way to Garbett plateau. There's no tree that stands out well enough to qualify as a landmark. (Maybe it's on some other trail to Rajmachi?)

Ready reckoner for Sahyadri treks

The information on this page comes from multiple sources on and off the net - websites of trekking groups, blogs, books, magazine articles, and some from my own experiences. Some people have put in a lot of effort to publish first-hand experiences and information on the net (- thanks to them!). Unfortunately, it's quite distributed. I was collating this information for myself; thought many others might find it useful. It could be used as a (non-authoritative, mind it!) starting point for shortlisting your trek and planning for it.

I would recommend these reference books:

• Trek the Sahyadris - by Harish Kapadia (Not too in-depth, but has a comprehensive list and a good summary of all treks in the Sahyadris, with maps of various regions, and references. Rs.205 on infibeam.com)
• The Sahyadri Companion - by YZ Trekkers (Much more detailed description of trek routes and regions; useful if you're planning to trek without a guide. However, I would recommend not to use this as a sole reference; use it in conjunction with latest blogs. Rs.800 on sahyadribooks.org)

Some reference websites:

• http://www.oocities.org/trekforts (Has good summary, logistics, route details, maps, and a sorted listing of treks)
• http://kpy2.tripod.com (Concise, to-the-point route descriptions)
• http://www.geocities.ws/drchengalva / http://www.oocities.org/drchengalva (GPS-based maps, route details, aerial photos, etc.)
• http://www.trekshitiz.com (Route details, maps, etc.)
• http://deepabhi.tripod.com (Decent summary of many treks in the region, and some useful maps)
• http://www.mumbaihikers.org (Trek announcements, general information)
• http://www.mumbaihikers.net (Trek announcements, general information)

Not to discourage anyone, but just so that people are aware of potential dangers on treks:

• http://www.geocities.ws/drchengalva/DangerZone.html
• http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2011-05-23/pune/29573391_1_trekking-fort-accidents
• http://www.mid-day.com/news/2013/jan/150113-pune-7-lost-trekkers-found-after-9-hr-search-in-lonavala-hills.htm
• http://elitetrekkers.blogspot.in/2011/07/trek-to-rajmachi-26102011.html
• http://tanay-bivouac.blogspot.in/2012/04/kidney-thieves.html (- this one and the one above could be a rumor, but who knows...)
• http://www.dnaindia.com/pune/report-six-mountaineers-rescued-from-pune-s-jivdhan-fort-1700928
• http://mumbaihikers.net/2014/01/beware-con-men-travelling-samrad-village-base-village-sandhan-valley / https://www.facebook.com/vikroooom/posts/10202763033027757
• https://www.facebook.com/groups/bhramanti365/permalink/805415049472557
• http://mumbaihikers.net/2013/06/sahyadri-rescue-1-rajmachi-2013
• http://indianexpress.com/article/cities/mumbai/over-40-trekkers-stranded-on-chanderi-hill-rescued-one-dead
• http://www.mid-day.com/articles/trekkers-celebrating-new-year-thrashed-stripped-bhakts-lonavala-fort-shivaji-news/17884153

http://mumbaihikers.net/rescue-group has a handy contact list of some rescue groups. Although not listed here, most professional trekking groups also help in rescue operations.

The list of treks below isn't comprehensive; it's just my short-term homework - I intend to do some (or most) of these treks over the next few months. This list will be a perpetual work-in-progress though; I'll keep adding to it as I gather information for myself.

Trek	Logistics (ex-Mumbai)	Difficulty	Remarks / Links
Matheran via Garbett Point
2600 ft., scenic, adventurous --- Region: Karjat west --- Route: Bhivpuri Road -> Garbett Plateau -> Garbett Point (Matheran) -> Neral	Travel mode: Local train --- Duration: 1 day	Easy; some might find last 15 minutes scary/tough --- 4 hours of low/medium climb	Best done in the rains. --- Other routes: Panvel -> Dudhani -> Matheran Chowk -> Varosa -> Matheran --- Links: sahyadriranger businesstravellerindia
Matheran via One Tree Hill
2600 ft. --- Karjat west --- Karjat -> Vaverle -> Bhorgaon -> Ambewadi -> One Tree Hill (Matheran)	Local train + auto/jeep 1 day		traveller.outlookindia
Peb fort (Vikatgad)
2100 ft., scenic, adventurous --- Karjat west --- Neral -> Peb -> Panorama Point (Matheran) -> Neral	Local train 1 day	Moderate; some might find last stretch difficult 3 hours of low/medium climb	Best done in the rains. Other routes: Panvel -> Peb Matheran -> Peb --- trekforts trekshitiz
Nakhind
2300 ft. --- Karjat west --- Neral ->	Local train + 1 hour auto ride (?) 1 day	Easy / moderate; tricky descent 3 hours
Chanderi
2300 ft., adventurous --- Karjat west ---	Local train + 1.5 hour auto/jeep ride (?)	Moderate upto the fort; difficult / technical from fort to pinnacle 4 hour climb + 2 hour descent
Tavli pinnacles and cave
2600 ft. --- Karjat west --- Badlapur -> Shirgaon -> Saroli -> Tavli	Local train 1 day	Difficult
Navra-Navri ridge
2000 ft. --- Karjat west --- Badlapur -> Kharval -> Thakurwadi -> waterfall climb	Local train 1 day	Moderate / difficult
Prabalgad
2300 ft. --- Panvel --- Panvel -> Poinje Phata -> Poinje -> Prabal	Local train + auto/jeep/bus 1 day	Moderate	Panvel -> Shedung -> Belavli -> Vardoli -> Prabal Panvel -> Shedung Phata -> Thakurwadi -> Prabal (?)
Kalavantin durg
2300 ft. --- Panvel --- Panvel -> Shedung Phata -> Thakurwadi -> Kalavantin	Local train + auto/jeep/bus 1 day	Moderate/difficult; last part technical, but not necessarily 3 hour climb
Irshalgad
3700 ft. (?) --- Panvel --- Chowk -> Vishalwadi / Irshalwadi (?) ->	Local train + auto/jeep/bus 1 day	Medium; technical rock climb to top
Bhimashankar via Shidi ghat
3300 ft. --- Karjat east --- Khandas -> Shidi ghat -> Bhimashankar -> Ganesh ghat -> Khandas	Local train + (bus + jeep) / only jeep / auto --- can squeeze in 1 day	Strenuous, risky (exposed rock climb). Difficult if without experience or a guide, or in monsoon. Medium otherwise. --- 3-4 hour climb and 3-4 hour descent	sahyadriranger --- Cross-country alternatives: From Lonavla - indiahikes.in From Siddhagad - indiahikes.in, trythethrill.com
Rajmachi via Kondhane caves
2700 ft. --- Karjat east / Lonavla --- Kondhane -> Rajmachi -> Kondhane	Local train + auto/bus --- 1 day	Moderate, strenuous, not scary	sahyadriranger kpy2.tripod --- Alternatives: Kondivade -> Kharvandi -> Rajmachi -> Kondivade Lonavla -> Tungarli lake -> Rajmachi -> Kondhane --- Best in monsoon
Visapur / Lohagad / Bhaja
3400 ft.+ --- Lonavla --- Malavli -> Bhaja -> Lohagad -> Visapur	Train 1 day	Easy
Jivdhan via Naneghat
Naneghat - 2750 ft. Jivdhan - 3750 ft. --- Malshej [Kalyan -> Murbad] --- Naneghat gate -> Naneghat -> Jivdhan -> Naneghat gate	Local train + 1.5 hour bus ride --- 1 day	Naneghat - easy. Jivdhan - strenuous; difficult if without experience or a guide; risky in rains. --- 2 hours to Naneghat. 2 more hours to Jivdhan.	sahyadriranger --- Monsoon best for Naneghat. Jivdhan climb best after monsoon. Can do night trek to Naneghat in summer. --- Alternatives: Naneghat -> Jivdhan -> Ghatghar -> [Junnar] (or reverse) Via Bhoranda Nal - itrekz, itrekz, bhramanti
Ahupe Ghat
3900 ft., scenic --- Malshej [Kalyan -> Murbad] --- Dehri / Khopivali -> Ahupe Ghat	Local train + auto/bus 1 day	Medium 3 hour trek	Best done in the rains
Siddhagad
3200 ft. --- Malshej [Kalyan -> Murbad] --- Narivali or Borwadi -> Siddhagadwadi -> Siddhagad	Local train + 1.25 hr. bus ride 1 day	Medium; Borwadi route tougher; slightly tricky climb towards the top 3-4 hour climb	Can do night trek in summer --- trekforts trythethrill ratangadbhandardaratrek
Gorakhgad
2100 ft. --- Malshej [Kalyan -> Murbad] --- Dehri -> Gorakhgad	Local train + bus 1 day	Medium 3 hour climb	Can do night trek in summer
Harishchandragad via Tolar Khind
4700 ft. --- Malshej --- Khubi Phata -> Khireshwar -> Tolar Khind -> Harishchandreshwar temple	Local train + bus 1 night + 1 day	Medium; risky/tough 600 ft. rock patch towards the top 5-6 hour climb	Rock patch could be slippery in rains; avoid if you can't go technical; climbing down same path risky in any season. --- trekforts --- Other routes: via Zunzar Darwaza (tougher than Tolar Khind) Via Sadhale ghat (technical) Via Pachnai (easy, long) Via Nalichi vaat (technical)
Ratangad
4200 ft. --- Igatpuri south --- Ratanwadi -> Ratangad -> Samrad -> Karoli / Sakurdi ghat	Local train + jeep/bus 1 night + 1 day; can squeeze to fit in 1 day (?)	Moderate 3 hour climb + 1.5 hour descent	Ideal immediately after rains
Kalsubai
5400 ft. --- Igatpuri south --- Bari -> Kalsubai -> Bari	Local/long-distance train + bus + jeep --- 1 day	Easy 2-3 hour climb + 1.5 hour descent	Best done in the rains --- sahyadriranger
Kulang
4800 ft. --- Igatpuri south --- [Kasara / Igatpuri -> Bhavli] -> Kulangwadi -> Kulang	Local train + jeep/bus 1 night + 1 day; can stretch to fit in 1 day (?)	Difficult 6 hour climb (?)	Better, safer in winter --- shrikantescapades alangmadankulang yash-gaikwad
Sandhan valley
-1500 ft. --- Igatpuri south --- [Kasara] -> Samrad -> Sandhan valley -> Dehane -> [Asangaon]	Local train + 1.5 hrs. jeep Can be squeezed into 1 night + 1 day	Medium + 3 (- at least 1) technical patches 7-8 hours of almost flat bouldering	Avoid monsoon; tough just after monsoon; easier towards summer --- sahyadriranger shrikantescapades trekmatesdiary odatiadventures
Mahuli Chanderi (not to be confused with Chanderi near Matheran)
2500 ft. --- Kasara --- Asangaon -> Mahuli village -> Chanderi	Local train 1 day	Medium
Mahuli and Chhota Mahuli
2500/2000 ft. (?) --- Kasara --- Asangaon / Atgaon -> Mahuli village -> Mahuli	Local train 1 day	Medium	Can do night trek in summer
Salher
5100 ft. --- Nashik north ---		Moderate
Shevtya ghat / Singapurchi Nal
--- Konkan south (Dapoli) ---			Best done in the rains oikosnatura.blogspot mumbaihikers

If you would rather go with a trekking club/group (which I would recommend for beginners and to anyone going on some of the tough/longer treks), a little google search will yield good results, or you could start at the links below (- note that not all active groups may be listed on these pages):

• http://www.mumbaihikers.org/2012/12/trekking-groups-contact-list-updated.html
• http://www.mumbaihikers.net/groups-2/trekking-groups
• http://itrekz.wordpress.com/organizations
• http://www.indmount.org/gettingstarted/network/clubs.aspx

Happy and safe trekking!

Matheran via Garbett Point

Height : 2600 ft.
Awesomeness : Exceptional, at least in the rains
Difficulty : Tough (actually, scary, not tough) at the final 15-minute stretch for inexperienced people without a guide, or if you climb up the wrong spur. Easy otherwise. First time trekkers with a sedentary lifestyle find it tough.
Endurance : 4 hours of no to low to medium climb. (Total time : 1 day ex-Mumbai - early morning to late evening)

Travel mode : Local train

Cost : ~ Rs.200 including travel and grub

Region : Karjat

Trek route : Bhivpuri Road -> Garbett Plateau -> Garbett Point (Matheran) -> Neral

My trek date : 03-Aug-2013

Ramblings :
Returned to this trek last week after more than a decade. August 2001 was when I had first taken this route - my first trek. It was a gang of about 50 hostel-mates going on the traditional 'sophies trek' then - starting on foot from campus at 4 in the morning - waking up effortlessly since we hadn't slept - to catch the first Karjat local... Last Saturday, it was a group of 5 techies, hung over from late Friday night coding horrors, fighting to make it to the 5:20 AM local. My adventure started right from CST when I just missed the Karjat local. Fortunately, it was a slow train, slower than the taxi that I took to catch up with it at Dadar.

All I remembered of my last trek to Matheran was lush greenery, low flying clouds, stinging rain, a well (- weird, I know), a couple of risky spots on the way, and great fun - mostly useless. So I did a bit of google search before the trek, and a couple of hours of blog and google-map review later, I had it all figured out... Or so I thought.